Pakistani restaurants in London
6 places
Lahori Nihaari
£Built around nihari, the slow-cooked breakfast stew - a single-dish kitchen in a city with very few of them.
Namak Mandi
££Peshawari cooking rather than Punjabi - namkeen karahi seasoned with salt and little else, which is a different tradition from everything else on this list.
Original Lahore Kebab House
££Trading since 1972 on lamb chops, dry lamb curry and chicken karahi, in a room that has never pretended to be anything but a canteen.
BYOB. Open late, which is half the reason it is busy.
Salloos
£££A long-running family-run Knightsbridge room doing Pakistani cooking with tablecloths - almost the only one of its kind in London.
Spice Village
££A large, bright Tooting room built for families and big tables rather than for atmosphere.
Tayyabs
££The sizzling lamb chops arrive still spitting and are the reason the queue forms - a Whitechapel institution since the 1970s that has never needed to change.
BYOB, no bookings for small groups at peak, and loud. The queue is the system.